by Mick Jones

Atmosphere comes first at Dao Jia Chang(Come and Taste Home) at the Dongsishitiao. Service comes at top volume, and not just because the restaurant is heaving with loud customers.

Order any of the variations on zha jiang mian, and a machine-gun rattle of small dishes ensues as the meat and vegetables of your choice are thrown into the bowl of heavy flour noodles.

If you stick to Old Beijing selections (some generic homestyle fare is also on offer), the food is simple, sometimes rather odd, and almost certainly not spicy. With one exception - the wonderful ink fish with scallion and hot chillis (jiu cai chao mo dou yu). Easily the best dish of my visit, it's a terrific combination of pungent flavors.

Backtrack to the starters, though. Another fish is essential here - the pickled men su yu, whose bones have disintegrated to the point where you don't have to worry about them sticking in your throat. The cold mustard cabbage (jie mo dun) is one of the odder offerings, presenting a curious mix of sweetness and throat-tickling heat.

Pickled turnip skin (bao yan luo bu pi) is only worth testing if you want to add some crisp texture to your meal. For a meatier experience, order a plate of excellent deep-fried ribs (xiang su pai gu), and add some weightier fare with fried eggplant shreds (su chao qie zi si).

If noodles seem like a bit much after all this, settle for a spring onion pancake. I advise against the "Lazy Dragon" rolls, whose vaguely aniseed flavor had me reaching for a drink to wash it away. A distinctly unusual third choice could be the hu bing, a corn bread pancake topped with egg, scallion and dried shrimp. This is also a taste that may take some acquiring.

Be warned: There is no English menu here, so don't forget to take your BTM with you. If you like lively dining, this is well recommended.