Fit for a King
by Xia Dong
God might be in the details, but good dim sum is in the ingredients. That's because the delicate dumplings are
merely steamed. They're not fried or slathered in heavy sauces, so the flavors of the
ingredients shine through. 
Chef So Kam Chuen at the Imperial Garden restaurant inside the Kempinski Hotel seems to know this well. As part of a dim sum promotion, the restaurant is serving a wide range of dim sum - most of which take your tongue on pleasant taste-bud trips.
On a recent trip, the shark's fin dumpling with parsley was exquisite, tender and delicate. The steamed barbecued pork buns may have looked like your average pig-in-a-blanket but had just the right balance between salty and sweet. The spring rolls were a surprising departure from the mammoth logs served in most Chinese restaurants in the United States.
Some of the dishes fell a little flat. The deep-fried taro dumplings filled with minced pork were interesting, but a little greasy, a complaint that could be lodged against some of the other fried foods.
Despite a name that sounds like a witches brew, the congee with pig skin and jellyfish was lightly flavored and an excellent way to round of lunch.
While a meal for two can easily top RMB150, the pleasant surroundings and attentive English-speaking staff make it worth it. Exotic wood panels adorn the walls, and the table settings are silver.