C'est Bistro, C'est Bon
by Mick Jones
Beijingers have traditionally received a warped impression of French food. In the Chinese capital, even a lowly plate of snails comes as part of a very expensive package; but in France itself, the enjoyment of good cooking is the privilege of everyone, not just da kuan and well-heeled foreigners.
Enter Vincent Bulourde from Bordeaux, whose mission with Le Bistrot des Chateaux at the Jinglun Hotel is to set things straight.
"I had sold my restaurant in Bordeaux when I heard about this great opportunity in Beijing," Vincent recalled. "I"ve always been very interested in bistros -- I want to offer people here French food that isn"t expensive."
To that end he has created a menu that is concise and unfussy, and insists on local produce as much as possible to keep costs down. That doesn"t mean chef Philippe Pons isn"t encouraged to be creative, though. For example, the Feuillette d"escargot au pastis (35 yuan) from the selection of starters is a thoroughly original approach to snails, with flaky pastry and a creamy sauce taking the place of the usual garlic butter. The dish as a whole was a big winner with all your BTM tasters, and the snails themselves came as a surprise to some -- "They"re tender and juicy, and I thought they were going to be hard and disgusting," commented Ben Moger-Williams.
A solid terrine was all the excuse needed to empty the jar of cornichons. Simple as it sounds, this may well have been the highlight of the meal.
The classic French Onion Soup (20 yuan) followed. No complaints here, although it may be a little sweet for some tastes. The Soup du Jour (18 yuan) on this occasion was a cream of mushroom affair, which also received a thumbs-up.
We were tempted by the Moules Marinires, but ultimately plumped for the upmarket C™te de Veau Normande (115 yuan) -- a veal cutlet in a rich sauce with mushrooms and apples -- and the Poulet GrillŽ Crapaudine (30 yuan) -- a vast plate of chicken in a mustard sauce that had a hint of honey about it.
Ben decided temporarily to abandon France by choosing a Spaghetti Carbonara (30 yuan), which had been adapted -- quite successfully -- for local palates by downplaying the cream element and introducing oil and basil.
Of all the main dishes, the veal came out top for having the most interesting flavors. The surplus sauce was also good for mopping up with the Gratin Dauphinois potatoes (20 yuan).
Le Bistrot is attractively and warmly decorated, with lighting just subdued enough to give an intimate feel. Things get livelier later on, with music from a Filipino band starting around 9 pm every evening. Drinking, dancing, and tapas are on the menu from 10 pm until 3 am.
Le Bistrot des Chateaux
Open: Lunch 11.30-14.30; Afternoon tea 14.30-1730; Wining and Dining 18.30-22.00
1st floor, Jinglun Hotel
3 Jianguomenwai Dajie
Tel: 65002266 ext. 53/54