Vive la France

by Mick Jones

A popular restaurant in Beijing usually needs no mood music. The atmosphere is filled with the endless clatter of dishes coming and going and the high-volume enjoyment of diners grouped around large circular tables. Bright lighting and loud decor form an appropriate backdrop to this effusive eating experience.

Justine's at the Jianguo Hotel is half a world away in more than one sense. The capital's oldest French restaurant, it serves up a crushed-velvet, old-style upper-class elegance, with soft tones and textures soaking up the low-level reflections of mirrored walls. The gentle strains of a string and flute duet undulate over murmured conversation and the clink of wine glasses.

"This is a special location, special event restaurant," says Gerhard Fasching, food and beverage director for the Jianguo. "No other restaurant in Beijing, and possibly in China, can come up to Justine's standards of service."

In the kitchen, chef Gilles Villain from Normandy has been weaving his magic for the past four and a half years, making him one of the longest-serving head chefs in Beijing. Unusually for a Western chef in Beijing, he has succeeded in broadening his Chinese guests' appreciation of far-flung cuisines.

"Our Chinese guests feel comfortable and believe in our standards," says Gilles, "So they are more adventurous." Even snails have won over many locals, who make up 60 per cent of the restaurant's clientele.

To one who has been in Beijing for some time, the menu at Justine's is a thing of rare beauty. After being treated to a spiced beef "amuse-bouche," we eased our way into the evening with a "Salade Folle 'Bourgeoise,'" (115 RMB) which combined pan-fried goose liver (tender as a fresh bruise), smoked duck breast, ceps, and a poached quail's egg on a bed of lettuce with a tart, tangy raspberry dressing. On the side we added half a dozen snails (98 RMB), cooked in a fairly rich sauce with a dash of curry flavoring rather than the typical garlic butter. The quality of the snails was first-rate - expectations of small rubbery gastropods were pleasantly confounded.

In a classy touch that showed just how much the management at Justine's appreciates fine dining, a crisp grapefruit sorbet was presented to refresh our palates before tackling the main course. Next up, the Raie a  la Ducienne was pan-fried (can any readers enlighten us as to what else something might be fried in?) skate in cider vinegar and caper butter sauce (178 RMB). Unfortunately, this had been dried out a bit by overcooking, and the sauce was not up to the job of hiding this faux pas.

Much better was the Kidney Flambe (258 RMB), prepared in an exciting blaze right by our table. Brandy, shallots, mustard and cream went into a simple but terrific dish.

As is only to be expected at a French restaurant, Justine's dessert menu is a delight. Try out the warm white wine and raspberry tart (75 RMB), or if you're out for a romantic tête-a-tête, two can share the pancakes flamed with Grand Marnier (156 RMB).

Whatever you order, Justine's wine list has the appropriate complement, and when you're all finished eating, one of their fine cognacs will help get your digestion into gear.

Chef Villain has special promotions on the go all the time, so there's always something different to go with the regular menu.

Call 65002233 ext. Justine's for reservations.

Open: 06:30-10:00, 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:30